all about grass
Grasses fall into two major categories: warm-season grasses and cold-season grasses, depending on their germination and growth temperature requirement.

Warm-season grasses germinate in the late spring when soil temperatures are warmer, and they grow during the heat of the summer. The grass will go dormant and become brown during the cold season.

Cool-season grasses germinate early in cool soils and grow in the spring and fall. In order for you to have a green lawn during the colder months, cold-season grass seed is spread over the Bermuda grass; this process is known as “overseeding” and is usually done in late October.

Many factors go into the selection of a type of grass for a particular lawn. One of the overriding factors is your local climate. The so-called “warm-season” grasses are ideal for the southernmost states in the U.S., whereas “cool-season” grasses predominate in the North and in Canada. In between, for the Eastern U.S., lies the so-called “transition zone,” comprised of zones 6-7.

Common cool-season grasses include:
- Bentgrasses
- Bluegrasses
- Fescues
- Ryegrasses

Common warm-season grasses are:
- Bermudagrass
- Buffalograss
- Zoysiagrass

Keep in mind that lawns are not always composed of just one type of grass, but rather a mixture to take advantage of the strengths of each type.

Below are some examples of additional factors that go into selecting which type of grass is best for you, in addition to local climate (these examples pertain to lawns in the Northern zone and in the transition zone):

- Shady areas are notorious obstacles to having green lawns. Among cool-season grasses, fine fescues are the most tolerant of shade.

- Lawn areas with heavy foot traffic require a tough grass. A mix of Kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye will fill the bill here.

- Some regions are more prone to drought than others. The new, improved strains of Kentucky bluegrass are relatively drought-tolerant.

Rainfall within your region is another factor in achieving a successful lawn. One way or the other, your grass must have sufficient water on a consistent schedule in order for you to achieve the goal of a lush green lawn. In dry climates, installing an irrigation system is beneficial for growing grass successfully. Cost can be a major consideration as to whether or not you need an irrigation system, but keep in mind that in the long run, an automatic irrigation system may save you money.

Common Issues Related to an Unsuccessful Lawn

Lawn Thatch:
Lawn thatch is the layer of dead turfgrass tissue between the green vegetation and the soil surface that must be removed (a process known as "dethatching") to maintain lawn health. Lawn thatch is derived from stems, leaves, stolons, rhizomes and roots.

Fertilizers/Weed control:
It's easy to overlook the necessity of spreading lawn fertilizers over our grass. The best method of fertilizing involves using lawn fertilizers that are "slow-release" in nature. You can find these products at your local home improvement store or nursery. Because these lawn fertilizers release their nutrients over time, rather than all at once, you're essentially stretching out the feeding. As nutrients are released, the root system of your grass fills in any bare patches. This in itself promotes lawn weed control, depriving weed seeds of a place to germinate. But in addition, there are lawn fertilizers that promote lawn weed control at the same time. Effective lawn weed control should, after all, go hand-in-hand with the application of lawn fertilizers: if the weeds suck up some of the nutrients that you're supplying, those are nutrients being wasted, as they are not going to your grass.

Mowing Height & Grass Clippings:
According to the Cornell University Cooperative Extension, cutting the lawn with a lawnmower set at a proper mowing height can save you from having to bag your grass clippings, even if you don't own a mulching mower. The rule of thumb suggested by the Cornell Extension is, "Mow when your grass is dry and 3 to 3-1/2 inches tall. Never cut it shorter then 2 to 2-1/2 inches or remove more than one third of the leaf surface at any one mowing." shorter then 2 to 2-1/2 inches or remove more than one third of the leaf surface at any one mowing."

The premise behind this mowing tip is that the valuable nutrients in the grass clippings can do your lawn some good, left right where they lie after cutting -- as long as their bulk is kept at a minimum. By following this rule of thumb and cutting only about an inch off the top of your lawn at any one time, the bulk of the grass clippings is kept low.

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